How to use Calendula Flowers to Dye Fabric (DIY Natural Dye)
Learn how to use calendula flowers to dye fabric and create a simple garden bunting.
Calendula (Calendula Officinalis), also known as pot marigold, is part of the same plant family that includes marigolds and sunflowers and offers a bright and vibrant bloom often associated with summertime and sunshine. Thought to have originated around the Mediterranean, this edible plant is known for being an essential culinary and medicinal resource. It produces a golden natural dye used to dye butter, cheese, and textiles when added to a dye pot. Brewed as a tea, it emits a spicy aroma, a soothing digestive ally. Its topical use is myriad and is beneficial for many skin ailments.
Growing Calendula from seed is rewarding and straightforward. Sew the seeds directly in the ground in mid-spring or early summer in full sun. When the plants start to bloom, harvest the whole flowers in the heat of the day. Dry the full flower heads for later use, or add the fresh petals to many foods, including home-baked bread. Calendula is a welcome and attractive addition to any garden.
Natural dyes are fun to work with and offer a unique art process with a rewarding result. Calendula flowers are part of the sunflower family, and when added to a dye pot, they render a stunning and bright shade of sunshine yellow. With your family, grow, dye, and sew your way through this slow craft experience to create a cherished keepsake. Pair this project with vintage or thrifted fabric and doilies to enhance its sustainable nature. Use your completed bunting to add flair to your next garden-side celebration.
DYE WITH CALENDULA FLOWERS
SUPPLIES
10 Pieces of 100% White Cotton Fabric or Doillies (Consider using thrifted or upcycled fabric) weighing about 1-1.5 pounds of fabric
1 Sewing Needle (or Sewing Machine)
5ft Cording or Fabric (Cut into 2″x 5 FT Length)
1 Cup Fresh or Dried Calendula Flowers
1 Large Pot with a Lid (used only for dyeing purposes)
Materials for Mordanting (click to go to the mordanting cellulose fiber section)
1 Glass or Ceramic Bowl
Drying Wrack or Clothesline
Water Source
Stove
PREPARE THE FABRIC
Washing & Scouring Fabric For Natural Dyeing
Before dyeing, prewash your fabric with unscented soap and hang it to dry completely. This will remove any chemicals or soaps that might interfere with the dyeing process. Prewashing is especially important to ensure colorfastness if you’re using upcycled fabric. For more information on scouring fabric before dyeing, refer to this article.
Mordanting Cellulose-Based Fibers
What is Cellulose Fiber?
Cellulose fiber is any fabric made from plant material, such as bark, leaves, or stems. Cellulose-based fabrics are primarily composed of cotton, flax (linen), ramie, bamboo, seacell (seaweed), tencel (wood), hemp, wisteria, nettle, or milkweed, with at least 90% of their composition being made from these fibers.
Why are Mordanting Cellulose-Based Fibers Different From Protein-Based Fibers?
Unlike protein fibers like wool and silk, cellulose fibers are composed of glucose chains, not amino acid chains. This structural difference requires unique dyeing methods. Cellulose fibers are typically dyed with fiber-reactive dyes, while protein fibers use acid-based dyes. This project employs a natural dyeing method for cellulose fabric, which necessitates a slightly longer mordanting process.”
Materials
3-5 ounces of Aluminum Acetate
Tools: All items must only be used for dyeing and not cooking for consumption
3-quart (2.8 L) or larger stainless-steel pot or bucket with a lid (size dependent on the amount of fabric) with a lid
Hot tap water
Plastic bag or bucket (for storage)
To Make
- Prepare the Mordant:
- Safety First: Wear a mask when handling aluminum acetate.
- Measure: For every 100 grams of dry fabric, add 1/4 cup (60 mL) of hot water to a measuring cup.
- Dissolve: Add two teaspoons (6 grams) of aluminum acetate to the water and stir well with a whisk or spoon until completely dissolved.
- Create the Mordant Bath:
- Fill a pot or bucket with enough hot tap water to submerge the fabric fully.
- Add Mordant: Pour the dissolved aluminum acetate mixture into the pot of water and stir.
- Mordant the Fabric:
- Add the soured, wet fabric to the mordant bath.
- Cover the pot or bucket with a lid to retain heat.
- Stir the fabric every 10 minutes, rotating it from top to bottom to ensure even mordanting.
- Allow the fabric to soak in the mordant for 2-4 hours. Longer soaking times generally result in better lightfastness.
- Store or Proceed to Dyeing:
- Gently squeeze excess mordant water from the fabric.
- Store Wet: For immediate dyeing, proceed to the next step. To store the mordanted fabric, place it wet in a plastic bag or bucket and store in a cool, dark location for up to 3 days.
- Dry and Store: If you need to store the fabric for longer than 3 days, allow it to dry completely before storing.
Note: Always follow safety guidelines when working with chemicals like aluminum acetate.
Baths for Cellulose-Based Fibers
Removing excess mordant from cellulose-based fibers is crucial to ensure vibrant color results. The type of mordant used affects the final color. For this project, we’re using a wheat bran mordant. Other options include a chalk (calcium-rich) mordant, which produces muted tones. Leaving excess mordant on the fabric can produce a chalky appearance and dull colors. This step occurs after mordanting and before dyeing.
Wheat Bran Bath
This bath can hold up to 500g of fabric (more than needed for this project) and is discarded after 12 hours. For ultimate efficiency, make more than one project at a time.
Materials
2 cups (100g) wheat bran
20 cups of warm water
Tools
Two 11-quart buckets
Measuring cup
A stirrer, such as a whisk or a spoon
Sieve
To Make
- Mix 100g of wheat bran into 20 cups of warm water. After 5 minutes, strain out the wheat bran using the sieve.
- Dip the mordanted fabric into the strained bath, making sure to wet thoroughly.
- Wring the fabric, rinse, and proceed to the dyeing process. Your fabric is not prepped to accept the natural dye and should be colorfast.
PREPARE THE DYE BATH
- Select a pot that can easily fit all your fabric and has a lid that fits well.
- Fill the pot 1/2 way with water. Place the pot on the stove, and bring to a boil.
- Once boiling, add the calendula. Keep boiling for 3-5 minutes. Then, reduce the heat and simmer for one hour.
- With the sieve, remove as much of the calendula petals from the dye bath, and discard.
DYE THE FABRIC
- With the tongs, submerge the treated fabric (see above for details) into the dye bath.
- Then, place the lid on the pot and allow it to simmer for another 30 minutes.
- Use the tongs to remove the fabric from the pot and put it into the bowl to cool
- Hang the fabric to dry.
CREATE THE BUNTING
- Once your fabric is dry, use scissors to cut the fabric to the desired size. For this project, we cut the doilies in half and the fabric pieces into 4’x4″ squares.
- Layout your cording on your work surface, and place each piece of dyed fabric on top of the cording, pin it in place 1″ along the top of the fabric. Allow 1/2″ to 1″ of spacing between each fabric piece.
- Next, thread your needle and do a running stitch along the top of the material, making sure to go through the cording too as you stitch. Consider using a sewing machine to enhance the speed of this step.
- Tie off loose threads and add any finishing touches to your bunting.
- Hang in your garden or home and enjoy!
TIPS & TRICKS
- Use 100% natural fibers. Cotton, muslin, hemp, wool, and linen hold take to dye well.
- If you don’t have access to Calendula, marigolds will also render a vibrant yellow tone.
- Indulge in the process of this project and spread out the steps over several days. This project is better when you take your time.
- Select a non-reactive metal Dye pot (such as stainless steel) with a lid not used for everyday cooking.
- Children delight in natural dye projects. Older children enjoy learning sewing skills and can assist with measuring and cutting the fabric to size, threading the needle, and doing simple running stitches.